You've picked your label material and designed your artwork, and then the supplier asks: "which fold?" For a lot of first-time buyers, that's a blank. But the fold matters — it decides how the raw edges are hidden, how the label is stitched into the garment, and how it sits against the body.
This is a plain reference to every common label fold, what it looks like, and when to use it. Keep it handy for your next order.
Straight-cut (no fold)
The simplest option: a flat label with sealed or heat-cut edges and no fold at all. Stitched on all four sides or heat-pressed. Best for heat-transfer labels, simple flat labels and printed care labels where a clean flat piece is all you need. The most economical starting point.
End-fold (die-fold)
- Both short ends folded under to the back
- Raw edges hidden, label lies flat
- Stitched top & bottom (or all four sides)
- Centre-back neck brand labels
- The most common fold
- Clean, finished, professional look
If you're not sure, end-fold is the safe default for a neck label — it hides the edges and sits flat and comfortable.
Centre-fold
Folded in half along its length so the design can show on both sides, then stitched into a seam or hem. Common for hem tags, side-seam labels and size tabs where both faces may be seen. Because it folds in half, the artwork is usually mirrored or repeated so it reads correctly whichever side shows.
Loop-fold (loop label)
Folded so both ends meet and are stitched together into a seam, leaving a neat loop of label sticking out. Popular for size tabs and small brand tabs at the hem, waistband or side seam. An economical way to add a small, visible brand or size tab.
Mitre-fold & Manhattan
- Mitre-fold — ends folded at an angle (like a picture-frame corner) for a neat, slightly decorative edge; a refined detail on premium labels
- Manhattan-fold — a folded finish that presents the label at an angle or raised profile for a distinctive look
These add a decorative edge. Mitre and manhattan folds cost a little more than a simple fold but give a refined, considered finish — nice touches for premium and designer labels.
Quick reference: which fold, where
End-fold (die-fold) — flat, clean, edges hidden.
Centre-fold or loop-fold — both sides or a neat loop.
Straight-cut — simple flat piece in a side seam.
Mitre or manhattan — a decorative angled edge.
The short answer
The main label folds are straight-cut (flat, no fold), end-fold / die-fold (ends tucked under, the standard for neck labels), centre-fold (folded in half so both sides show, for hem tags), loop-fold (a protruding loop, for size tabs), and mitre / manhattan (decorative angled edges). Match the fold to the placement: end-fold at the neck, centre or loop at the hem, straight-cut for care labels, mitre for a premium edge. Fold has a small effect on cost — size, material and colours matter more. Tell us where the label goes and we'll recommend the fold and send a sample.